Page 64 - UpperCrust e-Magazine Third Quarter 2024

FOOD TRAILS | KOCHI

A Culinary Pilgrimage

in Kochi

Traversing the tranquil paths of a city, after a decade or more, could have you
experiencing it from a whole new lens. Kochi has changed over time and then not
so, too, where its food and its authenticity are concerned. Here's a taste of it

Text: Dr Nishant Kumar

remember first visiting Kochi, then common feature in breakfast buffets across This time I visited Kochi after a decade,
known as Cochin, more than 30 years the country. A Kerala fish curry can be found and my endeavour was to try authentic
ago
I . It was so different from anywhere in some form or the other in restaurants food, not only in luxurious fine-dining
else I had been that it yet stands out in my across the breadth of the country. settings, but in different locations traversing
memory. The Taj Malabar on the Arabian Visiting Kochi, for me, has always from the very basic dining spots the locals
Sea was an unique property, and it is here been a gastronomic experience. When I frequent to the more upscale restaurants.
for the first time I tasted appam and the think of Kochi and Kerala I think about the On this visit I was staying at the Grand
varieties of curries and stews, which we backwaters, the serenity, the huge diversity Hyatt Kochi Bolgatty, a relatively new luxury
are now so familiar with. Back then, good that one finds in the city with the fishing property on Bolgatty Island overlooking
appam was only available in Kerala and if nets, the Jewish Quarter and the Royal the backwaters of the Vembanad Lake.
you wanted to have a flaky Malabar paratha, Palace. An added attraction for me has They have a very accomplished team of
that is where you needed to venture. always been the famous Guruvayur Temple chefs with Latha, as their Chef de Cuisine.
Things however have changed in the located an hour and half away from Kochi Chef Latha is a celebrated chef having
last three decades. Appam is now available with its elephant sanctuary where more written multiple books on the local food of
in most multi-speciality restaurants and is a than 50 elephants of the temple are housed. Kerala, but it is her simplicity and warm-
heartedness which makes an impression on
Latha Kuniyil, me. She cooks food that she knows well and
Chef de Cuisine,
Grand Hyatt has been eating and feeding others all her
Kochi Bolgatty
life. She is ably assisted by Chef Selvaraj,
the other Chef de Cuisine.
My first meal was a thali that was
specially curated for me. There is so much
variety in Malabari cuisine that a thali is the
best way to try and sample many things at
one go. My meal started with Chicken 65,
which is deep-fried chicken marinated with
special Kerala spices. Very simplistically,
Chukku kaapi Grand Hyatt Kochi Bolgatty

Karimeen Pollichatu

62 | UPPERCRUST | JUL-SEP 2024