Page 63 - UpperCrust e-Magazine Third Quarter 2024
P. 63

BAWRI | EATING OUT

































                         Owner, Sahil Sambhi with
                           Chef Amninder Sandhu





















            Malai Kulfi Sandwich                                                                    Paan on a platter

          childhood fascination with the uniquely   the pungency and richness of the flavour,   well. It is important that it does because
          flat Parsi Dairy Farm Kulfi and a playful   a degree of courage. In this regard, there   it is a chef-centric restaurant, one that is
          variation on the kulfi theme.      is more than a touch of Indian Nouvelle   identified with Chef Amninder Sandhu.
             As a chef, Amninder has the rare   Cuisine, in that she addresses one of the   This again is a rarity in many restaurants as
          ability  of  presenting  and  plating  dishes   standard  criticisms  of  traditional  Indian   there are, perhaps, a handful in which the
          which look extraordinary. The dish in that   cuisine, that there is an irritating absence   chef can be identified by name. There is
          regard which truly stands out is her Gucchi   of  aesthetics  in  presentation,  something   added reason as she is female, and as such,
          Stuffed. I adore the Kashmiri morel, one   which the French and the Japanese are   for a woman to have several restaurants
          normally has it in  pulaos,  but what she   known to excel at.         under her stewardship, acclaimed ones,
          does is to place it on what appears to be   I hope that this restaurant thrives and   is  rare  in  India  and  is  something  which
          faux soil which is actually a mix of nachni   prospers. Certainly on the several occasions   should be encouraged.
          and walnut to convey the impression that   I visited it, it was heaving with people and   Bawri
          you are dining on a morel found foraging   it was not easy to get a table. But I am   Shop No. 5, Ground Floor, Ins Tower, G
          in one of the forests of Pahalgam. This   sure that given the quality and range of   Block BKC, Bandra Kurla Complex, Bandra
          creation takes a feat of imagination and   the menu, the ambience of the restaurant   East, Mumbai 400051
          for many people who are not familiar with   as well as its location in BKC, it will do   Mob: 0 92051 00992


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