Page 89 - UpperCrust e-Magazine Third Quarter 2024

CHUTNEY CHATTER | UPPERCRUST FOOD

from experts in medicine and ancient texts. Today, as we venture through the
It played a role in shaping Delhi’s scene. As bustling streets of Delhi, we can witness
the Neher meandered through the city, it set the enduring influence of Neher a Fez, on
off a chain reaction that sparked a revolution. culture. The streets of Chandni Chowk
Over time the water from the Neher still resonate with tantalising aromas from
acquired a hint of arsenic − a challenge that sizzling kebabs and zesty chutneys while chaat
became an opportunity for ingenuity. To vendors continue to delight our taste buds
avoid it, inventive chefs and cooks embraced with their creations.
pungency to infuse unique “chatpata” The Rise of Spice: A Taste Revolution
flavours into the city’s cuisine. The unique When we explore the annals of history
and captivating spiciness adds a layer to we stumble upon Christopher Columbus’
Delhi’s identity subtly yet distinctly. encounter with peppers in 1492. What
The consonant diagraphs CH are such initially sparked his curiosity soon led to
a remarkable coincidence. Or is it? In the a revolution in India within two decades.
tapestry of cuisine, where languages, cultures, The fiery allure of these peppers quickly
and traditions intertwine like sand in an spread from one kitchen to another, forever
hourglass the sound is CH. It is remarkable reshaping the landscape.
for binding chaat, chatpata, chutney, etc. Chilli peppers gained popularity as an
Chutneys exemplify India’s diversity, addition to dishes due to their versatility
with languages like Hindi, Bengali, compared to the black pepper. They thrived
Tamil, Punjabi, Kannada, the list goes on. in soil and climate conditions with effort.
Chutneys harmoniously bring together all While the Portuguese were hesitant about
these dialects. The melodious presence of incorporating chilli peppers into their
CH, in chutney effortlessly bridges these cuisine, Indian kitchens wasted no time in
boundaries. It unifies people by giving embracing their potential.
meaning to the word itself. Whether called Peter Martyr, a historian who lived during
chutney in Hindi or chatni in Kannada it is that era once pondered the significance of
this letter combination of CH that connects peppers by stating, “...when it is used there
all languages under one umbrella. is no need for pepper.” During this time
Emergence of the Baniya Community Indian composer Purandaradasa hailed chilli
and their Immense Contributions peppers as “...the saviour of the poor and
The Baniya community played a role enhancer of food; fiery when bitten.” India
in enhancing Delhi’s scene. These smart swiftly responded to the arrival of peppers. Pyaz Imli ki Chutney
traders and entrepreneurs took advantage By the end of the century, India had become
of the abundance of produce and fragrant a source of these peppers that eventually Ingredients
herbs from the Neher. They set up their reached markets in Germany, Britain and • 1/2 cup tamarind (imli) pulp
businesses in the markets of Chandni Holland. • 2 onions (pyaaz), finely chopped
Chowk creating a range of dishes influenced The Homecoming of Chilli Peppers • 4 green chillies
by the unique qualities of Neher water and The journey within India for peppers • 2 tbsp mint leaves
its flavourful nature. These Baniya stalls can be traced back to their entry point, in • pinch of black salt
gained recognition for their chutneys that Goa. India has become a producer of chilli • salt to taste
combined local flavours with exotic spices peppers, in the Deccan region, specifically
and ingredients. Andhra Pradesh and Karnataka. These Method
The rich diversity of Delhi’s population regions are known for cultivating types Make a coarse paste of green chillies
has also made a lasting impact on chutneys. of chillies like Byadgi Ellachipur Sannam, and mint.
Each community that has called Delhi home Guntur Sannam and Hindupur, which add Mix the paste, onion and salt into the
has contributed its chutneys reflecting their flavours to Indian cuisine. tamarind pulp.
unique tastes and cultural traditions. From Delhi holds significance in shaping Add a few tbsp of water to adjust the
Punjabi-style chutneys to tangy tamarind- traditions especially when it comes consistency of the chutney.
based ones favoured by South Indians, to a concept called chaat, which was You could adjust the spice levels
Delhi’s chutneys represent the city’s vibrant introduced during the Mughal rule. according to your taste.
cultural tapestry. Chaat, meaning “to lick” in Hindi, is

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